Thursday, September 26, 2013

Ubud


Coffee Plant

We had met Roger and Sherry on the Gulfstar 44 Equanimity when we were sailing up the Queensland coast and liked them immediately.  Not only did we have a lot in common but their bubbly personalities, great senses of humor and easy going styles made them very fun to hang out with.  They, too, took the Eastern route and it was natural for the four of us to make plans to travel in Bali together.  It was serendipitous that we also met Sunny, an expat American living in Lovina Beach, who knew everyone and much about the area.  She made recommendations on where to go and how to get there, even going as far as hooking us up with a car and driver.  A rental car is about US$30 per day but for about US$45 per day, you can get a car and driver which is well advised as the narrow streets are clogged with motorbikes, there are no street signs and any foreigner is automatically at fault if there’s an accident.
Roger and Sherry
Our first foray inland was to some spectacular waterfalls.  The hour-long walk to get there did include about 300 steep steps but we also got to learn much about the local flora and fauna.  Did you know that the coffee plant’s blossoms have a delicious fragrance which smells nothing like coffee?  When we got close to the falls themselves we found that we had to shout to each other to be heard over the roar of the falling water.  The heavy mist in the air swirled around us as the wind generated from water falling so far created it’s own Force 5 breeze.  The water fell into a good-sized pool that was only about 5 feet deep and it felt incredibly refreshing after our sweaty hike.  Once back in the car, we drove to a beautiful old Buddhist temple and wandered around the wonderfully landscaped grounds before heading back to our respective boats.
Pemerintah Kabupaten Tabanan Temple
Several of the other cruisers had already made the trip to Ubud, a popular destination for tourists in central Bali and some of their reports made it sound not quite so attractive.  Regardless, we made plans to go anyway as it sounded like fun to do a road trip and get away from the boat for a few days.  On our way there, we stopped at a temple situated by the side of a large, fresh water lake and at that elevation the air was decidedly cool - it was the first time in months that the concept of anything more than a t-shirt and shorts was even considered.  We checked into our hotel which wasn’t luxurious but was very nice with spacious rooms and a wide patio.  At US$34 per night my expectations hadn’t been very high but I found the place delightful and quiet.  After a fabulous lunch we strolled through the very busy, very touristy town and later that evening saw a terrific Balinese dance performance.

The breakfast that came with our rooms was actually pretty good but we didn’t linger as we wanted to get to the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary before the crowds and before it got too hot.  It was a short walk from our hotel and right at the entrance there were macaque monkeys hanging around.  Large signs had a long list of warnings about the monkeys and although wild, they have no fear of humans.  In fact, they’ll steal just about anything from you including wallets, sunglasses, cameras and jewelry.  We weren’t there two minutes when one monkey grabbed Sherry’s bottle of water but fortunately one of the staff brandished a slingshot and that scared the monkey off.   In the forest is also a Hindu temple and the monkeys make good use of the statues as perches and beds.

In the afternoon we hired a driver that took us to see more temples and that evening we saw still another Balinese dance performance although this one used no musical instruments, just a large group of men chanting.  It was bizarre but entertaining nonetheless.  Sherry and Roger treated Ruthie and me to dinner to celebrate our 35th wedding anniversary.

Our driver was going to pick us up after lunch to take us back to Lovina but I wanted to do a little shopping before we left as Ubud is renown for it’s batik.  Any one of the thousands of souvenir stores sell cheap batik clothes but I was on a mission to find something of decent quality.  An inquiry had provided us with a prospect and without too much difficulty we found Bamboo.  Completely different than any other store we had been in, the owner, Koni, who spoke perfect English, turns out to be a talented artist as well as a successful businessman.  The four of us were stunned by the gorgeous fabrics and impeccable tailoring of the clothes.  Granted, the shirts were about five times the cost of the cheap shirts in the souvenir stores but easily worth it.  Koni does all of the designs himself and he says that no two shirts are alike.  Even though it takes a tremendous amount of time and effort to make a batik ‘chop’ – the tool that presses the wax into the fabric, he only does a few runs of any one design.  I begged him to sell me a franchise but he said no.  I asked if I could wire him money in the future, would he send me shirts?  Again he said no.  The worst part about being there was having to make a decision about what not to buy.

There was barely room for all of us and our purchases in the car for our trip back.  We made it back just in time for the Farewell Ceremony and quite a few of the boats in the Rally had already left Lovina Beach.  Rutea had done fine by herself and it was a good feeling to be ‘home’ again. 

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Lovina Beach

We rely heavily on the Lonely Planet guides when we're traveling and our 1,000-page volume on Indonesia shows a lot of wear. The guide had several glowing comments about the Gili islands, saying that they're 'irresistable' and that there's 'serenity with no motorized traffic . .' but as we approached the small bay we found it chock full of cruising boats that were rolling badly from the wake caused by ferries bringing in waves of tourists. After making one pass through the anchorage, we turned south to an anchorage a mile-and-a-half away on Lombok Island where we spent a very pleasant afternoon. Just before sunset, we weighed anchor and, heading west again, made our way to Bali.


It was just after sunrise when we found Lovina Beach on Bali's northern shore. From the water it appears to be nothing more than an open roadstead but there is a protecting reef on it's eastern edge. Already eight boats were anchored there so we didn't have any trouble finding a spot to drop the hook and it was refreshing to feel it sink into the dark sand bottom. Although it's not the calmest anchorage we've stayed in, the motion isn't too bad and the prevailing winds are generally offshore.


No sooner had we pulled the dinghy onto the steep, wide sand beach when we were approached by several locals, all asking questions about ourselves. We had learned that this is typical Indonesian behavior but Westerners are often taken aback with their somewhat personal inquiries. "Where are you from?" "What is your name?" "How many people are on your boat?" "How long are you staying?" "Where are you going?" "What are you doing tomorrow?" Just beyond the beach is a long string of small store fronts that sell all of the Balinese tourist junk. The store owners are masters at getting you to make a commitment to visit their store and their bargaining skills are second to none. Still, we found it to be delightful and it would be still several days before we were thoroughly worn out from the constant barrage of locals wanting to provide us with taxis or massages.


However, once we got away from the beach front, we could feel the magic of Bali. This was a different Indonesia that we had seen. Being predominantly Hindu, every home and every store has a shrine or small temple. Every village has at least three temples and people place 'offerings' - small freshly-woven baskets that contain flowers, candy and incense - on the ground in front of their businesses, homes or on any one of the millions of statues that are found everywhere. The traffic is a little insane but there's still a certain serenity - maybe it's the way people put their hands together in front of their chests and bow slightly - I'm not sure what it is exactly but we're completely taken with it. The bright green rice fields are almost everywhere there's a scrap of flat land and the thick tropical forest grows right to the field's edge. Sadly, there's still wide-spread poverty with many families unable to come up with the US$250 for annual school tuition.

Would we be so in love with Bali if things were expensive? I like to think so but they're not and it makes the island even easier to love. The current exchange rate is 11,450 rupiah to US$1.00. A large 650ml Bintang beer in an upscale restaurant is about 35,000 rupiah or about US$3.00. A huge plate of mei goreng (fried noodles with fresh vegetables - one of my favorites) is about the same price. So, for about US$6.00, you can get a huge lunch with a very tall cold beer and that's if you want a full sit-down restaurant. If you're willing to settle for a street vendor, it's a fraction of the cost. There's a fairly large expat community here and we've spoken with some Americans who live here now. They tell us you can rent a very nice house here for about US$1,200 per year!

An enormous stage, complete with a sophisticated lighting and sound system was erected for the Sail Indonesia welcome. Banners lined the beach and within a couple of days of our arrival, more than 50 cruising boats filled the bay. There were speeches and parades, dancing and dinner. The festivities often go on late into the night. While we love a good party as much as anyone, the lure of Bali's inland was pulling on us strongly so we quickly made arrangements to leave the coast and explore other parts of this unique island.
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At 9/25/2013 7:46 AM (utc) Rutea's position was 08°09.47'S 115°01.36'E

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Lombok

As is typical for Indonesia, we struggled somewhat to get our anchor to set in Telok Batu Montjo, on the northwest corner of Komodo Island. The night promised to be calm, though, so I didn't worry about it too much. After the sun had set and the moon was rising, Kyle and I both jumped into the perfectly clear water, trying to shed some of the afternoon's heat that our bodies seemed to hold so well. "Can you believe this?" Kyle asked, as we both treaded water. "What?" I said, not quite sure what he was referring to. "We're fucking cruising Indonesia!" he said, capturing the moment perfectly.

Before dawn the next day we were underway again, on a course of due west, with almost no wind. By late in the afternoon, we had entered Telok Bima and made our way south about eight miles to the large town/small city of Bima, where Corie and Kyle jumped ship for their surfing adventure. Although the holding was good in Bima, it was a little too exposed for Ruthie and me so we made our way back north in the channel and found a small bay that was almost filled with fishing boats. It was terribly deep and I didn't want to put out much scope but we did get the anchor to set albeit tenuously. As darkness fell, almost all of the fishing boats headed out, their small, single-cylinder diesel engines providing the power for their insanely bright lights they use to attract fish. The boats were still out at dawn the next morning when we started to weigh anchor but I could tell by the way our windlass was grunting that something was wrong. As our anchor broke the water's surface, it had brought with it the anchor of one of the few boats that hadn't gone out. An old man in a very small dugout canoe came over and helped me get us untangled but we left quickly before too many people could point at us and laugh.

We motored across the top of Sumbawa Island and nightfall was approaching as we made our way to the gap between the islands. No sooner had we finished showering when the wind filled in and the sea built. Instead of the widely-spaced rollers of the Indian Ocean, though, we were now sailing in a washing machine with tall chop coming from what seemed like every direction. The motion was awful and the only good thing about it was that we were making good time. It was nearly noon the next day when we pulled into Medana Bay on the northwest corner of Lombok Island and Rutea was once again covered with salt.

An enterprising Brit and his Indonesian wife were in the process of building a marina and resort. The bay was crowded with boats from Sail Indonesia and we reunited with many people that we hadn't seen in a while. The restaurant served pretty good food and kept what must have been an enormous amount of Bintang beer cold. We took one trip into the local village but there didn't seem to be an abundance of charm there so we made plans to get underway once more, this time to the island of Bali.
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At 9/25/2013 7:46 AM (utc) Rutea's position was 08°09.47'S 115°01.36'E

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Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Anchorage 45

As we were making our way across the remote parts of Indonesia on the Eastern Route, from time to time we'd listen in on the Western Route's net. It would make us giggle when we heard people talk about anchorage numbers rather than the actual name of the anchorage. A book titled "101 Indonesian Anchorages" by Geoff Wilson is about the only modern cruising guide available and it's widely used by participants in Sail Indonesia. A conversation on the radio might sound like: "We're leaving Anchorage 27 and heading for 30." "Oh, don't miss 29 - we had an absolutely fabulous time in 29." "Really? Sun Dog said it was buggy at 29." "Well, it was but there's this family that lives on the beach . . . "

You get the idea.

Its not that we reject using anchorage numbers but doesn't Uwada Dasami sound much more exotic than Anchorage 45? We had heard great things about the anchorage and when we arrived at midday, there was only one boat already there, a large wooden Indonesia dive boat, easily 100-feet long, it's high prow sticking up 12 or 15 feet above the water. Ruthie and I had an impromptu 'discussion' about where to anchor and we dropped the hook just upwind of 'Seven Seas', just where the water started to turn to a pale aquamarine color. Off to our port side was a long deserted beach and ahead of us were two small islands that protected us from the Indian Ocean's swell. Unlike most beaches in Indonesia, there wasn't any trash to be seen but there were dragons. Lots of them. No sooner did we have the boat secured then we had the dinghy launched. Very cautiously and slowly, we steered towards shore where four of the giant lizards were strolling on the beach, their ridiculously long forked tongues flickering out. Their walk was lumbering with each leg kind of rotating forward - it didn't look like they could move quickly even if they had to, despite what we've been told. Apparently they can swim if they have to but the conventional wisdom is that they don't like the water. Still, we kept our distance to them just in case one of them wanted to prove our theory wrong.

Later in the day, our friends David and Jackie showed up and since the location has an outstanding reputation as a dive site, Corie decided to join them for a dive while I was acting as Surface Support. That means I drove our dinghy around in circles for an hour, looking for their bubbles but the task got increasingly more difficult as other tour operators brought more divers to the same area. There must have been 30 divers in the water although two had to leave quickly when a woman put her hand on a lion fish accidentally.

David and Jackie invited us for cocktails on their boat which was a fitting end to a near perfect day. Uwada Dasami is a unique anchorage worthy of a terrific name. We didn't get much sleep that night as the wind came up and, like most anchorages in Indonesia, the holding is very poor despite the appearances of a wide sandy beach. Rutea's anchor held but lacking confidence in the bottom, it was tough to sleep deeply. I will look forward though to my dreams of returning to Uwada Dasami.
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At 9/11/2013 12:39 PM (utc) Rutea's position was 08°35.88'S 119°31.11'E

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Monday, September 9, 2013

Rinca Island

The Indonesian Navy had been practicing dropping frogmen overboard right in the area where the boats on the Sail Indonesia Rally were anchored. A big, black Zodiac would race through the fleet, dropping a wetsuit-clad diver about every 300 feet and an identical Zodia would follow, picking up the bobbing frogmen. It came as no surprise to any of us when we got the message that the Indonesian Navy wanted us to move to a different anchorage and we took that as our cue to leave Labuanbajo altogether.

The grapevine and cruising guides all recommended stopping at Rinca (or Rinja, depending on which chart you look at) Island before going to Komodo Island and since it was just a hop, skip and a jump away, we went there first. The well-protected anchorage was crowded with other cruising yachts so we were forced to anchor in the back of the pack in 80 feet of water, far deeper than I like to anchor. All of us piled into the dinghy and went ashore, tying up to a wooden pier and being greeted by park rangers. Rinca is in the Komodo National Park and you're not allowed to go exploring without a guide. The rangers told us it was too late in the day to take a trek but they did allow us to visit the park headquarters where we made arrangements for the following morning, bought t-shirts and drank a lukewarm beer. As we returned to the dinghy, we spotted several macac monkeys, the first time I had seen wild monkeys. I was a little disappointed when they showed not only no fear of humans but started to make pests of themselves, even hissing and baring their teeth at us.

We were only a little bit early when we showed up at the park headquarters the next morning despite the fact that we got up at 0530. After paying our fees, we were introduced to our guides (one guide for every five people and since there were six in our group, we got two guides. The straw-colored hills in the early morning light reminded me of the back country in Southern California during a heat wave - the temperature was tolerable at the time but promised to be oppressive as the day wore on. The trek is 10 kilometers and no sooner had we got started when we spotted our first dragon. Being cold-blooded, it stood stock still, it's head raised and gave the appearance that it was no more than a stuffed Komodo Dragon look-alike. Our guides cautioned us to stay at least 5 meters away as these giant lizards can move surprisingly quick if only for a short distance. Being carnivores, they can slice off a man's leg in the blink of an eye although there are relatively few accounts of them attacking people.

Both of our guides were very knowledgeable about the dragons and the flora of the island as well and their English was excellent. They pointed out plants with medicinal qualities and knew the scientific names of the plants, too. We even got to see a viper, coiled in the corner of the shed that houses the generator. As our trek continued, we saw less wildlife, save for a water buffalo that was bathing a wounded hoof. By now, the heat was building and none of us had walked that far in months. No one said anything but I think we were all a little relieved when we crossed the halfway mark, even though we were still climbing in elevation. A short time later we came to yet another pool of water with still another lone injured water buffalo trying to make itself comfortable. What this water buffalo didn't realize though was that there was a 3-meter dragon perched on the edge of the pool, just waiting to attack. It appeared to be a National Geographic moment unfolding in front of us, with the lizard's incredibly long forked tongue darting out and the water buffalo oblivious to the danger that was just a few feet away. We stood mesmerized for about an hour in the hot sun, waiting for something to happen but it never did. Our guides were equally mesmerized as they had never seen a scene quite like that but after a while they said that they had other treks to lead and we had to move on.

The rest of the trek was uneventful and it wasn't long after returning to the boat that we were underway again. We had heard of an anchorage further south on the island where people had spotted dragons on the beach. On our way there, we started to fight a vicious current, slowing Rutea down to less than 1 knot. We stopped at a non-descript spot, dropped the hook and jumped into some of the clearest water I have ever seen - from the deck of the boat, you could see every rock, every pebble and every grain of sand that was 20 feet down. Once the current turned favorable, we got underway again and as we approached the south end of Rinca Island, a huge expanse of water lay before us. Consulting our charts of the area, we learned that this body of water is called the Indian Ocean.
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At 9/9/2013 11:43 AM (utc) Rutea's position was 08°44.87'S 119°36.67'E

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Labuanbajo

It was with a deep and heavy sigh that we pulled away from Taka Bone Rate but with also a hint of relief - I wasn't sure our anchor would come up at all, fearing that it was stuck deep on a coral head but up it came nonetheless although scarred from it's battle with the coral. We had a great sail southwards and pulled into a small protected bay on Tanatampea Island, just as our friends on Geramar were leaving. The next morning, Corie and Kyle took a big bag of old clothing into the small village and were almost mobbed by the people there. They went wild over the clothing, one man grabbing one of Corie's old shoes while a different man got the other. We weighed anchor at about 1600 so there was still light in which to navigate our way past the reef and we set a course for almost due south. It was an absolutely delightful sail.

We approached Labuanbajo on the western side of Flores Island at about 0700 the next morning, anchored, cleaned up the boat and went in to clear in. Labuanbajo was a major milestone for us as it ended the Eastern Route of Sail Indonesia - the two routes met here and instead of cruising with twelve boats, we were now cruising with eighty-two. We knew many of the people who had chosen the Western Route and it quickly became apparent that the route we chose was the better of the two - we had better sailing, better events, better anchorages plus we got 250 liters of diesel fuel for free.

Labuanbajo was unique for us in many ways: There are a lot of tourists there so we no longer stood out in the crowd. Also, there were restaurants and stores that catered to tourists, two things that didn't exist at any of the towns on the Eastern Route. On the other hand, it shared many similarities of other villages we had visited with too much traffic on the narrow, dusty street and markets with their brightly-colored fruits and vegetables; fresh and dried fish covered with flies. They had a Gala Dinner for all the participants of Sail Indonesia where they even made beer available and the Traditional Dancing was very good but the food was awful. Since we planned to get out to some of the less-populated islands nearby, we spent quite a bit of time and money provisioning, even finding a store that sold bacon, the first we've seen in this predominantly-Muslim country.

With no unique claim-to-fame, we made plans to leave Labuanbajo as quickly as we could. The famous island of Komodo, a World Heritage site, was less than 20 miles away and the lure of clear water and the danger of Komodo Dragons had a strong grip on our imaginations.
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At 9/9/2013 11:43 AM (utc) Rutea's position was 08°44.87'S 119°36.67'E

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Monday, September 2, 2013

Taka Bone Rate

The Sail Indonesia fleet divided into two groups before we left Darwin - about 70 of the boats elected to take the Western Route while twelve other boats chose the Eastern Route (Northern would have been a better description of the direction but it doesn't matter). When we were anchored off of Kabaena Island, the twelve boats on the Eastern Route divided yet again. The next stop on our itinerary was the village of Bintang on Selayar Island where a traditional Welcome Ceremony was scheduled along with a feast of traditional foods. Selayar Island is about 35 miles long and only a few miles wide at it's widest point - a more pencil-shaped (or insert your own favorite analogy here) island I've never seen. The dilemma was that 30 miles east of Selayar Island is the Taka Bone Rate archipelago with it's pristine beaches and crystal-clear water. If you chose to go to Selayar Island first, it left you facing a 30-mile bash to windward. On the other hand, Selayar Island could be skipped altogether and the sail to Taka Bone Rate would be an easy overnight reach. Our fleet divided almost evenly, those saying that it would be rude to skip the festivities scheduled for us on Selayar while others were saying they had tired of festivities and just wanted a calm, quiet space for a while.

We arrived at the very small island of Tinabo in the northern part of the Taka Bone Rate lagoon, which is almost 60 miles long. The passes into the lagoon are miles wide and entry wasn't an issue. Typical of most of the islands in Indonesia, a wide coral shelf extends out from the beach and then drops off precipitously, making anchoring a challenge. Regardless, our hook grabbed onto something - I couldn't tell what - and held fast although I did have some concerns that I would be able to get it back up again.

This is what we had been hoping for: A tiny island with wide, clean beaches, crystal clear water and a reasonably protected anchorage. On shore, a national parks 'ranger' station also served as a dive center, a massive 'diver-down' flag flying from one of the palm trees. There were no facilities on shore whatsoever but they did have a compressor with which to refill dive tanks. Even though diving isn't one of my favorite pastimes, it is for many cruisers and Tinabo Island was heaven for them. The cost for guided dives worked out to be ridiculously cheap at somewhere around US$6.00 per person for a two-dive day, complete with boat and guide. Many of the most experienced divers said it was some of the best diving ever.

Ruthie and I snorkeled both near the boat and further down the island, seeing brightly-colored fish that we had never seen before. The coral wasn't as bright as we had seen it elsewhere but it was still pristine and the water the temperature of tepid bath water. In the evenings, many of us cruisers would gather on the beach, enjoying cold refreshing beverages while we watched the sun set. It brought back memories of the Tuamotus and Chesterfield Reef.
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At 9/3/2013 1:38 AM (utc) Rutea's position was 07°01.70'S 120°37.09'E

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Segori Island

I make continuous efforts to keep my cynicism in check but after a vicious bout of food poisoning and then an even worse relapse two days later, my interest in attending yet another Indonesian Welcome Ceremony and feast had become, well, cynical. In the Sail Indonesia Guide, it said that the stop at Segori Island was nothing more than a stopover and that no events were planned, however, once we got there, it turns out events were planned and in a big way for the tiny island. Things got off to a rough start as we approached the island and it's absolutely stunning lagoon of crystal-clear water. With the wind blowing between 20 and 25 knots, the boats in our fleet that had already dropped their anchors there were hobby-horsing enough that every once in a while their bows, poorly timing the next wave, plunged right into it. We sailed around to the leeward side of the island where the kind islanders had installed moorings for us. They did the best they could but a 5-gallon bucket filled with cement will not hold a 20-ton ketch, regardless of how much scope is out and they didn't put out much. In fairness to them, we tried two such moorings, dragging one so deep that once we released it, it sank completely out of sight. Even our attempt to set our own anchor failed so we sadly waved farewell to the Segori Islanders and our friends and found a secure anchorage on a nearby island, about 6 miles away. Five other boats in our fleet joined us.

The Indonesians were not deterred by our lack of proximity to the celebration as they recruited the use of the large police launch with it's two 200-horsepower outboards to shuttle people between the big island and the tiny island. I stayed aboard Rutea while Ruthie, Corie and Kyle did their duty, Ruthie stepping forward and delivering the speech on behalf of the cruisers at the ceremony. The islanders delayed the ribbon cutting ceremony of their new solar electric system to coincide with the Sail Indonesia presence. As a token of their appreciation, they island chief and his wife presented Ruthie with a hand-carved paddle.

The following day there was another road trip, this time on the much larger island of Kabaena. We bounced along a dirt road in a modern SUV that belonged to once of the local policemen, winding our way up to a small village where village children had gathered for a sort of dance competition. The kids were in matching costumes, I guess sorted by school or grade and were divided between the Pole Handlers and the Pole Avoiders. There were also the percussionists. The Pole Handlers had 3-meter long bamboo poles that were about 70mm in diameter and they worked in pairs at each end of two bamboo poles. There were four pairs of Pole Handlers on each team and once the music started, they would smack the poles on the ground or slap the poles together, in perfect time to the music. The Pole Avoiders would then dance between the poles in a delicate and extremely graceful manner even when the tempo became almost impossible. Obviously, if one of the Pole Avoiders got out of sync, her ankle or toe would be soundly smacked by the fast moving bamboo poles. Unfortunately for the kids doing this competition, we arrived late and their teachers made them do it all over again for us.

From there we made our way up a steep and rough road to a small village where we were greeted with a Welcome Ceremony and a feast. Corie and Kyle were selected to represent the cruisers at the ceremony although some of the other cruisers didn't get that memo and it kind of turned into a Group Hug kind of thing. I promise that I dutifully took pictures and didn't roll my eyes.
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At 9/3/2013 1:36 AM (utc) Rutea's position was 07°01.70'S 120°37.09'E

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