Friday, September 30, 2011

Nuapapu and World Cup Rugby

To seek refuge from a predicted north wind, we anchored off the small island of Nuapapu, which offers good protection from both north and east winds. It wasn't long after we had our anchor set when a small homemade launch approached and a young man speaking flawless English invited us to visit the primary school where he teaches. The following morning we followed his directions, "Turn left after leaving the wharf, look up the small cut, take the steps towards the big mango tree and follow the path . . ." One of the students met us on the path and showed us the way through the small village. Sleeping pigs squealed to life as we approached and within a few minutes we were crossing the stile into the school yard.


There are about 15 students between grades 1 and 6, with the students between 6 and 12 years old. As soon as we arrived they moved all of their desks and chairs to the walls, creating an open space in the middle of the room. The linoleum on the floor was in bad disrepair and many of the furnishings were falling apart. Still, things seemed neat and orderly. We were given chairs and the students sat on the floor in two rows facing us. One very pretty little girl put beautiful leis around each of our necks. The students then stood, one at a time, and introduced themselves in English. They told us who their mother and father are, their age and what they want to be when they grow up. The teacher then asked us to introduce ourselves. They sang us songs in both Tongan and English, did a traditional dance and recited some of their lessons. The teacher explained to us that compulsory school ends at grade 6 and if a student wants to continue they must first pass a test and then be willing and able to move to another village where higher grades are taught. Not only does the school cost the families a significant amount (by Tongan standards) but it's often difficult for the children to adjust not being at home, especially in a culture where family life is very important. I asked them to teach us some words in Tongan and they taught us hello - Malo e lelei; thank you - Malo; please - Fakamolemole; goodbye (if you're the one leaving) - Nofo a; goodbye (if someone else is leaving and you're staying) - Alu a. We took some pictures of the class as we were leaving and one small boy put his arms around Ruthie.


One of the boat's that is on a similar route as Rutea is called Slow Dance. It's a beatiful 80' motorsailor, owned by a former Hollywood movie producer. He has a crew of four people, most of them around Corie's age so she's been hanging out with them. Yesterday they invited us for cocktails and a tour of the boat. The owner was pleasant but a little cantankerous while the South African captain and his brother, the first mate, were very friendly and easy going. The cook made delicious hors d'ouerves. The topic of the World Cup Rugby games came up in conversation and the game for last night was South Africa against Samoa. Having just spent four weeks in Samoa (we attended a rugby game while there), we felt an affinity for the Samoan team. Of course, our South African friends were going to cheer on their country's team and bets were wagered. We all met later in the evening at one of the bars in town to watch the game, which was being played in New Zealand. South Africa scored a try (equivalent to a touchdown in American football) and converted the extra points early in the game. Two penalties by Samoa gave the South African team two more scores and it was looking dismal for Samoa. Yet they battled back, eventually scoring a try but failing to convert the extra points. Still, South Africa was unable to score any additional points and as the final seconds ticked away, Samoa drove down the field with last gasp determination. South Africa was able to prevent them from scoring but everyone was on the edge of their seats. South Africa won, 13 to 5.


Tonight we're going to a bay-side restaurant to celebrate my birthday with three other boats whom we have become very close. I think the World Cup game tonight is between France and Australia. France doesn't stand a chance.
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At 10/1/2011 12:15 AM (utc) Rutea's position was 18°39.59'S 173°58.98'W

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Saturday, September 17, 2011

Whale Watching

We got up pretty early this morning in an attempt to swim with the whales. Mark and Yuka from Merkava were going to try for a second day in a row and invited us to go along so at 0700 we were underway in our respective dinghies. We swung around Langito'o Island and sped into the passage between Ovaka and Vaka'eitu islands. Mark slowed his 20 hp Yamaha to an idle and we pulled up next to them. About 200 yards off, a humpback whale blew, dove and blew again. Certainly not close enough to swim with but a beautiful sight just the same. We sat, waited and watched the sky as heavy rain clouds approached. In not too long a time, the rain began to fall, light at first and then heavier. Everyone put on their wetsuits except me as I hadn't brought mine. Soon a torrential rain was falling and both dinghies were filling with water (lucky for us Mark had with him a small hand pump). Eventually the rain lightened and then quit altogether and we started up the dinghies and continued west into the open ocean. Once off Totokafonua Island, we stopped again as we spotted more humpbacks in the distance. We waited and watched both the water for whales and the sky as more impending rain loomed. Listening closely, we could hear the whale's songs, at first faintly but gradually louder. Mark and Yuka donned their mask and fins and slipped overboard. Corie did the same. All of a sudden Mark poked his head up, spat out his snorkel and said, "Holy shit!" A large whale had just passed under our dinghies. Unfortunately, Corie couldn't see it even though we were only a few yards away. We waited a while longer and a light rain began to fall. A craving for hot cocoa came over me and Ruthie agreed that she was ready to head back. Corie climbed in with Mark and Yuka - they headed south while Ruthie and I headed east and to Rutea. Once aboard, we peeled off our soaking clothes and made rich, hot cups of cocoa.

Last night we attended a typical Tongan feast on Lape Island. The island is very small and very poor, with about twenty people living in about ten single-room houses. They were hoping to raise money to repair their concrete pier and there was a nice turnout of cruisers. The whole roast pig was the only food I could identify but everything was pretty tasty including the octopus. The small local children with bad coughs were having the time of their lives with all the attention they were getting and they weren't bashful about just plopping down in the lap of any cruiser.

There's a long reef between Vaka'eitu Island and Nuapapu Island known as the Coral Garden. Yesterday we took the dink over there, anchored it in about 10 feet of water and tried to swim out past the breakers. The current was too strong and the waves too big to make it out so we waded to shore and got closer to the breakers. That didn't help. Ultimately, I found that if I walked backwards over the coral I could make progress even though the breakers would force me to lose ground every so often. Finally, I made it out past the breakers and was treated to fabulous underwater scenery. There is a huge variety of brightly-colored coral and tropical fish in every color of the rainbow. After about an hour of snorkeling, we had to face the breakers once again but at least this time we were going in the same direction.

Our plans remain a bit up in the air. There's another group of islands, called Ha'apai, that we'd like to visit plus there's still more places in Vava'u that we'd like to see. No one has given Tongatapu, the most populated island in the Tonga group, very high marks but we'll probably stop there before we jump off to New Zealand, which should be in four weeks or so.
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At 9/17/2011 9:40 PM (utc) Rutea's position was 18°43.25'S 174°06.09'W

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Saturday, September 10, 2011

Regatta Vava'u

The Vava'u group of islands is a very popular chartering area and most of the major chartering companies are well represented here. In fact, the Moorings, who has chartering bases all over the world, has published a chart of the area and has numbered the good anchoring spots. Now, everyone refers to these anchoring spots by their numbers. For example, right now we're in Anchorage Number 11, a huge, well-protected bay with good holding. It's a good thing that the bay is as large as it is as we're anchored with about 100 other boats.

As part of Regatta Vava'u, we raced yesterday from Neiafu to here. Unfortunately, the winds were extremely light and it made for some very frustrating sailing. Rutea held her own though and even though we wound up putting the engine on within less than a half-mile from the finish line, it was great to be out sailing.

Today is the fourth day of the Regatta and it's a low key day. The Regatta started on Wednesday with a street fair and an evening pub crawl (the Rutea crew is proud to announce that we made it to all seven pubs - upright and under our own power - I think I remember that the last pub, Tonga Bob's, had female impersonators. At least, I hope that's what they were!). Thursday were silly games (we skipped those) and Friday was a race around Neiafu harbor. We had good friends join us as crew and though we raced hard, we still got a DFL (Dead F***ing Last). A good time was had by all and we enjoyed many cold, refreshing beverages both on the boat and at the awards ceremony at the yacht club.

I've got to hand it to the organizers of the Regatta as things have been very well planned. There was a party on the beach last night, complete with a sophisticated sound and light system and even though it rained, I think it was a very successful party.

The main topic of conversation these days is the jump to New Zealand. Many have openly said that they're worried about it as it can be a very nasty stretch of water to cross. We've already contacted New Zealand's top weather guru and hired him to do a weather route for us. Even though October is too early to leave, we've instructed him to notify us of a decent weather window anytime after October 1st. Last year, many boats waited until November for a weather window and one never appeared.

Regardless of the passage that lies ahead of us, we're enjoying Tonga. Even though we're only 350 miles south of the Samoas, it's still substantially cooler here. We can now sleep with a sheet over us which was impossible to do north of here. The heavily forested islands are relatively low lying and while the water isn't as clear as it was in the Tuamotus, it's still beautiful. The people are friendly and many wear ta'ovala, a kind of woven mat that both sexes wear around their waists. The ta'ovala vary in shading, weave and length but to Tongans it's similar to wearing a business suit. Many men also wear lavalavas, a type of skirt. Since Tonga is truly an independent kingdom, it receives no overt aid from a first world country yet there appears to be no poverty or serious crime. Infrastructure appears to be adequate but internet bandwidth is very low - this keeps us from posting pictures for now.

So even though we can't post pictures of our smiling faces, know that we're safe and having fun. We've met several boats that we know from Mexico here and it's good to see them again. We think of all our friends shore-side often and wish you all well.
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At 9/11/2011 2:42 AM (utc) Rutea's position was 18°42.27'S 173°59.32'W

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Saturday, September 3, 2011

Western Samoa to Vava'u, Tonga

The easterly 'reinforced trade winds' had been blowing pretty steady at 25-30 knots for about three weeks straight so when we saw a break in the pattern, we went for it. As is all too typical, the winds went to almost nothing and we wound up having to motor a substantial percentage of the passage. Still, the seas were very calm and it allowed for some restful sleep. For those of you who have never slept on a small sailboat crossing blue water, imagine trying to sleep while a moving crew was in the process of moving the mattress you were sleeping on - sometimes you just have to hang on while you sleep.

We pulled into the Faihava Channel in a pretty heavy rain with the dark clouds touching the ocean's surface. Visibility left a lot to be desired but with the aid of radar and an accurate chartplotter, we were able to pick our way between Tu'ungasika and Luafatu Islands, past Hikutamoli and Lotuma Points and into the very protected bay of Neiafu, which is an international port of entry. We did a drive by of the 50 or so boats tied to moorings but we didn't recognize any of them. On the other side of the bay we spotted Blue Moon, our friends from New Zealand with whom we shared a slip at the marina in La Cruz, Mexico. After an unsuccessful attempt at anchoring, we decided to pick up a mooring. It continued to rain off and on.

We did get calls on the radio from several friends, including the elusive Archtuethis, whom we also hadn't seen since Mexico. The area is filling up as the start of Vava'u Regatta Week is this coming Wednesday. The event has gotten some good press in the cruising magazines and websites so it's possible that this might be it's biggest turn out yet. Ruthie and Corie aren't big on racing but I'm hoping they'll be good sports about it.

This is a major milestone for us - not only did we cross the international dateline but these are the last islands we visit until we jump off for New Zealand, which will quite likely happen next month.

In the northern hemisphere, this is my favorite time of year but I think it's still true down here. I wish everyone all the best.
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At 9/3/2011 8:58 PM (utc) Rutea's position was 18°39.82'S 173°58.90'W

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Friday, September 2, 2011

Passage to Tonga Updatee

It's the 3:00 a.m. to 6:00 a.m. squall watch again! Tonight when I came on watch we had just been hit by a pretty big squall that had come from the north east. Corie went to bed and I dried up the cockpit. Well wouldn't you know it, but that squall stalled right in front of us and we went through it again! Too big to go around- it was about three miles deep and twelve miles across! So now it's a bit to the north east of us again and I'm just waiting to see if it's going to rev up and move over us one more time! I'm waiting before mopping up the cockpit again, to see what's going to happen. (FYI- we track the squalls on the radar. They show up in color!) There have also been a large flock of boobies following us for a couple of hours. I don't know if they think the boat is a port in the storm for them or if they just think we are kindred spirits! I could hear them squawking at each other- "crazy sailors! only boobies should be out on the water on a night like this!"...

We will arrive in Neiafu tomorrow afternoon. The snorkeling and diving are supposed to be excellent! We just received an email from a friend of ours who "free dove" to 80 feet! She is a small Japanese woman who looks like a mermaid in the water! The Humpback whales have migrated to the Vava'u islands to have their calves and the islands are also the home of giant manta rays. After being in two harbors for the past month, it will be wonderful to be anchored back in water where we can swim off of the boat!

OK- better go look for lights and squalls.

R of Rutea
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At 9/2/2011 4:12 PM (utc) Rutea's position was 17°53.57'S 173°47.92'W

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Thursday, September 1, 2011

En Route Apia to The Kingdom of Tonga

It's 4:21 a.m. and I'm in the middle of my night watch. I'm not sure what day it is because we cross the international date line somewhere around here. We probably won't know the date and time until we get to Tonga! No wind right now except for the big squall that just blew over us. We went from six knots of wind to 24 knots of wind in minutes. Then it poured. Now all is calm again and we are motoring along under the southern constellations. Think I'll make a cup of cocoa!

R of Rutea

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At 9/1/2011 12:08 AM (utc) Rutea's position was 14°01.19'S 172°16.26'W

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